As it turned out, I stumbled into a very good deal. Someone had listed four seats together in Section 9 on the field level, on the third-base side and only slightly off home plate. Another buyer purchased three of them, leaving behind a single seat—the aisle seat. I found it while hunting around for the best combination of location and price and paid $100 including the fees. Later, the woman sitting beside me told me she had paid $181 apiece, plus fees, for the other three seats. Row P put us only a few dozen rows from home plate. These weren’t merely good seats; they were fabulous seats, and apparently there are advantages to being the guy shopping for one leftover ticket.
There was another bargain involved this time. Since my previous train trip to Dodger Stadium, I applied for and received the senior fare, which reduced my $1.75 ride to 75 cents. There are, apparently, some financial compensations for getting older. It also changes the economics of a trip to Dodger Stadium. Parking alone is $45, and getting there and back probably consumes another $15 worth of gas, even before calculating the actual mileage cost of operating the car. Call it $60 just to drive and park. Looked at that way, taking the train meant that, comparatively speaking, about $40 bought the baseball ticket and another $60 bought the privilege of sitting in traffic and parking my car. For less than the price of a cup of coffee, the train seemed like the better bargain.
I left home around 4:30 and rode to the Chinatown station. From there, it is roughly three-quarters of a mile to the stadium entrance, with most of that distance going uphill. Fortunately, Southern California had cooled considerably during the week, so the climb wasn’t particularly difficult. Near the entrance to the parking lot at the bottom of the hill, I stopped for about ten minutes and talked with two members of the security staff, one a retired police officer and the other retired from corrections. Then I finished the walk up the hill and into the stadium.
My ticket also included access to the Stadium Club, someplace I had never visited before. I asked an usher where it was and, after she pointed me in the right direction, I asked whether it was any good. She laughed and told me she didn’t know, but I could come back and tell her. So I went upstairs to investigate. It was packed, even though the game was still an hour away, and the buffet was $70. The food looked good and smelled even better. I’ve eaten in the Dugout Club before, where the food is fabulous, so I have little doubt that the Stadium Club buffet was very good as well. If I had been there with someone, sitting down for dinner might have been worth the wait and the price. Alone, though, I decided that a draft beer, a Dodger Dog and some peanuts sounded more like a baseball game anyway.
I took them down to my seat and spent much of the next hour doing something I have increasingly come to enjoy: watching a ballpark slowly become a ballpark. When you arrive early enough, most of the seats are still empty. The grounds crew is working, players and stadium employees are moving around, ushers are getting into position, and people begin arriving first in ones and twos and then in streams. The noise gradually builds as this enormous empty place fills with people and takes on an entirely different personality. There is something satisfying about simply sitting there with a beer and a hot dog and watching the whole thing happen.
Eventually, the woman who had purchased the other three tickets arrived with her children. She was pleasant, and occasionally she would ask me about a play or something happening on the field. One of the kids wanted to be closer to the dugout, and I pointed out that where we were sitting had another advantage: we were in prime foul-ball territory. We didn’t catch one, but several came close enough to send people around us scrambling. That is part of the entertainment of sitting that close. You aren’t simply watching the game from a distance; every once in a while, the game comes looking for you.
The Dodgers beat the Washington Nationals 5–3, although they seemed determined to make the ending more interesting than necessary. The game itself, however, probably won’t be what I remember most. I was glad to see Will Smith back behind the plate. They call him America’s Catcher, and I have always thought catchers deserve more credit than they receive. A baseball team can run a parade of pitchers to the mound, but somebody has to crouch behind home plate and catch all of them. During last year’s seven-game World Series, the Dodgers used plenty of pitchers, but Will Smith caught every pitch. From where I was sitting Friday night, I was close enough to watch him work, and that is one of the things great seats give you that television cannot quite reproduce. You begin noticing the work inside the game.
The best example came during the seventh-inning stretch. Tens of thousands of people were standing and singing while the Nationals took the field, but down near the Dodgers’ dugout was Mookie Betts, who was due to bat. While almost everybody else was participating in the spectacle, Betts was working. He took practice swings, settled into his stance, stretched, swung again and prepared himself for his next at-bat. With all that noise and activity surrounding him, he appeared to have blocked out everything except what he was about to do. Sitting that close, I found myself watching him prepare rather than watching the seventh-inning entertainment. We tend to notice talent when someone performs, but sometimes you have to get close enough to notice all the preparation that comes before it.
After the Dodgers finished off the Nationals, the stadium prepared for a drone show and opened the outfield so fans could go onto the field. I decided I had seen enough and started back toward Chinatown. The return walk is considerably easier because gravity is finally on your side, and I made it from Dodger Stadium to the station in 18 minutes. By then it was completely dark. The route crosses the freeway on a pedestrian bridge and winds down a corkscrew-shaped ramp that compensates for the considerable difference in elevation between Dodger Stadium and Chinatown. There was a homeless man sleeping along the way, but there were also plenty of other people making the same walk back toward the train.
When I reached the platform, something clearly wasn’t right. A train headed toward downtown was sitting motionless on the tracks with passengers aboard. Four police officers were gathered toward the south end of the platform, and then I saw another four coming from the north. One of them was a Detective III, identifiable by the insignia on his uniform. You can take the cop out of the department, apparently, but you can’t stop him from noticing things like rank insignia. Then came the announcement that train service had been stopped because of police activity.
Soon the officers divided into teams and went down onto the tracks. A police helicopter appeared overhead, followed by fire engines and additional emergency personnel. Eventually, we could see what all the commotion was about. A man was perched on one of the structures near the tracks, and initially, from the platform, the whole thing was frustrating. Everyone had someplace to go. The trains were stopped, people had just spent hours at a baseball game, and the natural reaction was to wonder why the police didn’t simply go down there and get him off whatever he was sitting on. Then it became apparent why they weren’t doing that. He was threatening to jump.
Once we understood that, the scene looked considerably different. Police officers were negotiating with him while firefighters positioned equipment nearby. A ladder truck arrived, and eventually they inflated one of those enormous rescue cushions underneath him—a giant firefighter bouncy house, for lack of a more technical description. Whatever impatience existed on the platform had to yield to the reality that, for the man down there, this was not an inconvenience or an interruption to his evening. Whatever had brought him to that pillar had brought him to the edge of something much more serious, and the police and firefighters were going to take whatever time they needed to try to bring him down safely.
For the rest of us, that meant waiting. We stood on the platform for about an hour with no real idea when the trains would begin moving again. People started arriving from Union Station because they had apparently been told that trains weren’t running there either and to walk to Chinatown. Eventually, I noticed people drifting toward a train that had originally been headed in the opposite direction. I asked what was happening and learned that they were going to reverse it and send it back toward Pomona. Since San Dimas was in that direction, that became my ride home.
By then, of course, everybody needed the same ride, so the train was packed. It also seemed to be moving extraordinarily fast. Maybe that was only my perception because I was sitting backward and watching the world rush away in the opposite direction, but it felt as though the operator had decided all of us had already waited long enough. Something else had changed during that hour on the platform, too. People were talking to one another. Many of us had just attended the same baseball game, and then we had stood together watching the same strange emergency unfold. By the time the train finally started moving, we had acquired a shared experience. Strangers who normally would have sat quietly staring at their phones were talking about the game, the delay, what had happened at the station, where they were going and how they were getting home. For much of the 45-minute ride, conversations bounced around the car among people who probably never would have spoken to one another otherwise.
I finally walked through my front door about seven minutes after midnight. I had left at 4:30, so I had been gone almost eight hours for a baseball game. Yet when I thought about the evening, there wasn’t much to complain about. I had found a terrific field-level aisle seat for $100, taken the train for practically nothing, walked through Chinatown and up the hill to one of America’s great ballparks on a beautiful, cool Southern California evening, eaten a Dodger Dog with peanuts and a draft beer, watched Will Smith work behind the plate and Mookie Betts prepare for an at-bat, and watched foul balls sail into the seats around me. The Dodgers won 5–3, and then getting home became an unexpected adventure of its own.
That may be part of why I have gone to nearly two dozen baseball games this year instead of simply watching them on television. Television gives you a better view of almost every pitch, along with replays, statistics and commentators explaining what you missed. What television cannot give you is everything around the game: the train ride, the walk, the people you meet, the retired cops you talk to on the hill, the woman beside you who paid almost twice as much for her ticket, the kid hoping a foul ball comes his way, or the chance to notice Mookie Betts quietly taking practice swings while nearly 50,000 other people are singing. It certainly cannot give you an unexpected hour on a Chinatown train platform followed by a midnight ride home with a car full of strangers who, because of what you have all just experienced together, aren’t quite strangers anymore.
None of that was part of the plan when I bought the ticket. I thought I was going to Dodger Stadium to see the Dodgers play the Nationals, and I did. But somewhere during this season of ballparks, trains, long walks and baseball games, I think I have begun to understand that the game is only part of why I keep going. There is something to be said for leaving the house, going somewhere, and allowing the evening to become whatever it is going to become. Sometimes you get a great seat, a cool night and a Dodger victory. Sometimes the train home gets stopped for an hour. Sometimes you spend the ride back talking with people you didn't know two hours earlier.
You buy the ticket for the baseball. The rest is the adventure.






